What inspectors flag in an Austin home depends largely on the year it was built. Find your decade, see what to expect, and know which findings are routine and which deserve a specialist.
Market Perspective • Adam Timothy Group
Pool built 2016–2023? Central Texas pools from the pandemic building boom carry a known concrete defect worth testing for before you buy.
Common home inspection repairs are the items inspectors flag over and over in homes of a similar age — and in Austin, the year a house was built is one of the best predictors of what's coming. A 1950s cottage east of MoPac and a 2021 build in the suburbs will both produce long reports, for completely different reasons. Know the pattern before the inspector shows up, and the report reads like a checklist you expected instead of a list of surprises.
The inspection is often the most emotional stretch of a purchase. You've won the house, and a few days later a 60-page PDF lands in your inbox with red flags on every page. Most of it is normal. Houses age, materials wear out, and building standards keep improving — so a home that was built perfectly to code in 1975 will still get written up against what we know in 2026. The goal isn't a perfect report. It's knowing which findings are routine, which are expensive, and which deserve a real conversation with the seller.
No. There's no pass or fail. Licensed Texas inspectors use the Texas Real Estate Commission's standard property inspection report, and every item gets one of four marks: Inspected, Not Inspected, Not Present, or Deficient. A "D" means that, in the inspector's judgment, something materially affects how a system performs or poses a hazard to life, limb, or property. The form doesn't ask the inspector to rank one deficiency against another, so a loose cabinet door and an overloaded electrical panel can look equally alarming on the page. Severity lives in the written comments, and in the conversation you have with your agent afterward.
One detail surprises almost every buyer: Texas inspectors are required to mark certain conditions Deficient even when they were perfectly legal when the house was built. TREC's report form says so directly, pointing to things like missing GFCI and arc-fault protection and ordinary glass where safety glass is expected today. A home can be fully grandfathered and still collect a page of D's. That's the system working as designed, not a sign the house is falling apart.
Regardless of age, four systems drive most repair budgets. If you only have the energy to read part of the report closely, read these sections.
Austin sits on two very different kinds of ground. Most of the city east of MoPac is built on Blackland Prairie clay that swells when it's wet and shrinks through the summer, while the hills to the west sit on thin soil over limestone. Movement can happen in a home of any age, and repairs are among the most expensive items a buyer will ever negotiate. The encouraging part: foundations rarely go from stable to failing overnight. A home that measures within tolerance today, with good drainage, usually stays that way. When the inspector recommends a structural engineer, take the recommendation — an engineer's elevation survey is the document that actually moves a negotiation. Our foundation vendor list is a good place to start.
Central Texas air conditioners work hard from spring through fall, and most last somewhere in the 15-to-20-year range. Nobody replaces a working system just because it's old; you replace it when it finally quits. What matters at inspection is age, refrigerant type (more on that in the era sections below), and whether the unit has been maintained. Local cost guides currently put an Austin replacement at an average of about $7,358, with most homeowners spending roughly $4,900 to $12,300 — and $12,000 to $25,000 when ductwork is replaced too.
Most Austin roofs are asphalt shingle, rated at 20 or 30 years. Inspectors tend to call a roof "near the end of its service life" well before that rating runs out, because Texas sun and hail age shingles faster than the label assumes. Roof age also affects insurance, so it's worth confirming with your insurance agent during the option period, not after closing.
Traditional tank heaters are simple and reliable until the tank itself corrodes through. Tankless units last longer but have more components that need service. Either way, the manufacture date on the label tells you most of what you need to know.
| System | Typical life | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Tank water heater | 10–15 years | Date on the label, rust at fittings, pan and drain line |
| Tankless water heater | About 20 years | Descaling history, venting |
| Central AC (Central Texas) | Roughly 15–20 years | Condenser date plate, refrigerant type, service records |
| Asphalt shingle roof | Rated 20 or 30 years | Install year, hail history, insurability |
Ranges are general guidance. Your inspector and a licensed specialist will give you the numbers that matter for a specific house.
Every era of construction has its signature materials — the product that was cheap, available, and up to code at the time, and later turned out to have a weakness. Inspectors know these patterns, which is why the same few findings show up again and again in homes from the same decade. Find the era below that matches the house you're buying.
Fewer big-ticket surprises, but two issues are specific to this era.
Most systems installed from about 2010 through 2024 run on R-410A. Under the federal AIM Act, new residential equipment has shifted to lower-impact refrigerants such as R-454B and R-32. An EPA rule effective July 27, 2026 lets contractors keep installing R-410A equipment built before January 1, 2025 until that inventory runs out, and existing systems can be serviced indefinitely. Nothing needs to be replaced today — but R-410A has been getting more expensive as supply tightens, so a leak repair on an older R-410A system will cost more over time. It's a factor in repair-versus-replace decisions, not an emergency.
If the home has a pool built between roughly 2016 and 2023, and especially one built during the pandemic building boom, read the pool ASR alert below before your option period starts. It is the single most expensive surprise we see on Austin homes from this era.
These homes are generally solid. Expect a list of minor items plus a few known products.
New AC equipment stopped shipping with R-22 in 2010, and production and import of the refrigerant ended in 2020 because it depletes the ozone layer. If the original system is still running, it almost certainly uses R-22. It is not illegal to own or service — reclaimed R-22 is still available — but it's expensive, and most technicians will steer a leaking R-22 system toward full replacement. Budget for a new system in the near term and negotiate accordingly.
When the seal between panes fails, moisture gets in and the glass clouds up. It's mostly cosmetic with some efficiency loss, and the glass unit can usually be replaced without replacing the whole window. Inspectors will note every one.
Kitec was an aluminum-core supply pipe, usually orange for hot water and blue for cold, used in some mid-2000s construction. Its brass fittings were prone to corrosion and leaks, and the manufacturer resolved U.S. and Canadian class actions with a $125 million settlement approved in 2011; that claim window has closed. Replacing every supply line in a house is a significant project. Get a licensed plumber's opinion on condition and options — our plumbing vendor list can help — and check with your insurance agent before the option period ends. Many buyers negotiate a credit rather than a pre-closing repair.
By now these homes are 27 to 36 years old, so they're typically on their second (or third) roof, AC, and water heater. Check the ages of each. Beyond that:
Pressed-wood siding was popular in the '90s and performs fine as long as the paint stays intact. Once water gets in, it swells, softens, and crumbles — usually first near the ground and under windows. Full re-siding is costly, but damaged boards can typically be replaced in sections and repainted. Look closely at the lower courses on the shaded sides of the house.
The earliest double-pane units in many '90s homes are old enough that failed seals and fogging are common. Same logic as above: cosmetic first, efficiency second.
This is where the electrical findings start to carry real weight.
A copper shortage in the mid-1960s to early 1970s pushed builders toward aluminum wire. The wire itself conducts fine; the problem is at the connections, where aluminum expands, contracts, and oxidizes differently than copper and can loosen over time. A CPSC-commissioned survey found pre-1972 aluminum-wired homes were 55 times more likely than copper-wired homes to have an outlet connection reach fire-hazard conditions. The CPSC recognizes three permanent fixes: rewiring with copper, COPALUM crimp connectors, or AlumiConn connectors. CO/ALR-rated outlets and switches are sometimes offered as a cheaper shortcut, but they aren't on that list. Have an electrician experienced with aluminum wiring quote the remediation — our electrician vendor list is a starting point.
Federal Pacific panels were installed in millions of homes from the 1950s into the '80s. A New Jersey court later found the company had distributed breakers that weren't tested to meet UL standards, and independent testing has documented breakers that fail to trip under overload. Inspectors will always flag these panels, electricians will almost always recommend replacing them, and some insurers won't write a policy until they're gone. Treat replacement as a near-certain cost.
Residential lead paint was banned in 1978, so sellers of older homes must provide a federal lead disclosure. The EPA estimates that 24% of homes built from 1960 to 1978 contain some lead-based paint. It's primarily a hazard when it's peeling, chipping, or disturbed during renovation — especially with young children in the home. If you're planning work on original trim, windows, or exterior paint, use a lead-safe certified contractor. Our lead paint guide for Austin buyers covers where it hides and who tests for it.
Asbestos was common in building materials through much of this period: popcorn ceilings, 9-by-9-inch vinyl floor tiles, drywall joint compound, and the wrap on older ducts and pipes. Homes built before the late 1980s should be treated as suspect until tested, and some asbestos products stayed on the market after that. A general inspector won't test for it. Intact materials are low risk; it becomes a real issue the moment you plan to scrape, sand, or tear something out. See where asbestos shows up in Austin homes and why "asbestos was banned" isn't the whole story.
Both come down to two questions: when the home was built, and whether you plan to disturb original materials. Here's where each one enters the purchase.
| Stage | Lead-based paint | Asbestos |
|---|---|---|
| Which homes | Built before 1978, when residential lead paint was banned | Built before the late 1980s as a rule of thumb; some products were sold later |
| Before you sign | Federal law requires the seller to disclose anything known about lead, share any reports, and provide the EPA lead pamphlet before you're bound by the contract | No separate federal form. Read the seller's disclosure for anything known about asbestos or past abatement |
| Option period | You're entitled to a 10-day window to have a certified inspector or risk assessor test. It can be lengthened, shortened, or waived in writing | General inspectors don't test. Sample suspect materials now if you're planning a remodel |
| Before you renovate | Hire an EPA Lead-Safe Certified renovator for work that disturbs paint | Have a Texas-licensed asbestos inspector test ceilings, flooring, siding, or duct wrap before demolition |
For vetted Central Texas testing companies, see the verified testing vendors in our lead and asbestos guide. For how these disclosures fit with the rest of the paperwork, read Texas disclosure forms: what both sides need to know.
Mid-century homes are some of Austin's most sought-after, and they're also where the report gets long. The late-'60s homes can have aluminum wiring and Federal Pacific panels too, and lead paint is common — see the era above.
Most homes from this era were plumbed with cast iron drains under the slab and out to the street. Cast iron rusts from the inside, and a failed line under a slab is a major, five-figure-plus repair. The single best add-on for any older home is a sewer camera scope, which shows whether the line has already been replaced, repaired, or is starting to scale and crack. Book one during the option period.
Panels from the 1960s are almost universally considered outdated, and many homes still have undersized service for modern loads like EV chargers and larger AC units. If the panel and service haven't been upgraded, expect the inspector to flag it and an electrician to recommend replacement.
Residential slab engineering was still young in the 1960s. On the clay soils east of MoPac, it's common for homes from this decade to show movement beyond tolerance, while homes to the west on limestone generally fare better. An engineer's report is money well spent here.
Older bungalows and cottages have character and, usually, a history of updates. The question is which updates have been done.
Most homes built before the 1950s sit on pier and beam (a crawlspace) rather than a slab. These foundations drift out of level often enough that periodic re-leveling — shimming and adjusting the piers — is ordinary maintenance. The good news is that pier-and-beam work is usually far less expensive and disruptive than slab repair, and the crawlspace lets an inspector actually see the structure.
Two-prong outlets mean no equipment ground. Grounding every circuit is expensive; installing GFCI protection on ungrounded circuits is a code-recognized alternative, and some electricians recommend grounding one outlet per room for electronics. Original knob-and-tube wiring, if any remains, is a separate and bigger conversation — many insurers won't cover it.
Asbestos-cement siding was common in this era and is stable as long as it's intact. The risk comes when it's broken, cut, or sanded and fibers get into the air. If you ever replace it, expect higher costs for licensed removal and disposal. Interiors from this era can also hold asbestos in flooring, ceilings, and pipe wrap; our asbestos guide lists the usual suspects.
Beyond the era-specific items, a predictable set of smaller findings appears in homes of every age. Most are inexpensive. A few matter more here than elsewhere.
Soil that slopes toward the house, downspouts that dump water right at the slab, and flower beds built up over the foundation edge are among the most common exterior findings anywhere. On Austin's expansive clay, they're also a foundation issue, because uneven moisture is what drives slab movement. Gutter extensions, splash blocks, and regrading are usually modest fixes that protect a very expensive system.
Inspectors look closely at the temperature and pressure relief valve and its discharge line, which should route safely down and away so an overheating tank can't spray scalding water. Gas units also get checked for venting, and older tanks for rust at the connections.
Dirty filters, dirty condenser coils, and clogged condensate drain lines are routine in Central Texas, where systems run most of the year and pull a lot of humidity out of the air. A backed-up condensate line is one of the more common sources of ceiling stains. Ask the seller for service records; a recent tune-up receipt answers a lot of questions.
Built-in appliances are run with their normal controls. Common notes include a missing anti-tip bracket on the range, a vent hood that doesn't exhaust properly, and a dishwasher drain without a proper high loop or air gap.
A general inspection is visual and non-invasive. Inspectors won't open walls, move the seller's belongings, or turn on systems that have been shut off, and TREC's own form states the inspection isn't technically exhaustive and doesn't imply the home is insurable. That leaves gaps worth filling with specialists, especially on older homes.
Find vetted specialists in the Austin Vendor & Services Guide.
An older home isn't a problem home. An unexamined one is.
Adam Timothy GroupIn Texas, most repair negotiation happens during the option period — the window, bought with the option fee in the standard TREC resale contract, when a buyer can terminate for any reason. That's when your inspection, any specialist evaluations, and your repair request all need to happen. Once you have the report, you generally have five paths:
Focus requests on safety issues and major systems; a seller will take a short, credible list far more seriously than 40 line items. For big-ticket findings like Kitec, Federal Pacific panels, or a failing sewer line, a credit often works better than a seller-managed repair because you control who does the work and how. Some items are different: if your lender or appraiser requires a repair, it has to be resolved to close — we cover that in why lender-required repairs are different. For a deeper walk-through of the negotiation itself, read why home inspections matter in Texas, and for the systems-first view, the five major home systems every buyer should inspect.
The same decade-by-decade list tells a seller exactly what a buyer's inspector will find. A pre-listing inspection lets you fix, disclose, or price for those items on your own terms instead of negotiating them under a deadline. Even without one, a few hours of preparation keeps the report focused on what matters:
For more on getting ready to list, visit the Seller Resource Center.
No. Texas home inspections have no pass or fail. Inspectors mark each item as Inspected, Not Inspected, Not Present, or Deficient on the Texas Real Estate Commission's standard report form. Some conditions, like missing GFCI protection, must be marked Deficient even if they met code when the home was built.
Foundation movement, aging HVAC systems, roofs near the end of their service life, and older water heaters show up most often across all ages. Beyond those, the year the home was built predicts the rest: refrigerant issues and pool concrete problems in newer homes, Kitec plumbing in some 2000s homes, and aluminum wiring, Federal Pacific panels, cast iron drains, and lead paint in older ones.
It can be, once the connections are properly remediated. The CPSC recognizes three permanent repairs: rewiring with copper, COPALUM crimp connectors, or AlumiConn connectors. Get an electrician experienced with aluminum wiring to quote the work during your option period, and confirm with your insurance agent that the home is insurable.
No. The EPA does not require homeowners to replace working R-22 systems, and reclaimed refrigerant can still be used for service. Because R-22 is no longer produced and is expensive, most buyers plan and budget for a replacement soon after closing.
Warning signs include spreading, map-like cracking in the pool shell, gel seeping from cracks, damp concrete, and unexplained water loss. Because alkali-silica reaction usually takes two to five years to appear, a clean-looking newer pool isn't proof. The only definitive answer is core sampling followed by a lab petrographic examination.
Yes, if it was built in Central Texas between roughly 2016 and 2023. Pools from the 2020 to 2022 pandemic construction boom fall squarely in the at-risk window, most affected pools must be demolished and rebuilt, and lab results can take weeks. Ask for the pool's build year and any prior test reports before you make an offer, and consider negotiating a longer option period to allow for testing.
Lead paint matters for homes built before 1978. Sellers must disclose what they know before you sign, and you have a 10-day right to test that can be extended, shortened, or waived. Asbestos matters for homes built before the late 1980s, mainly if you plan to renovate, because general inspectors do not test for it and intact materials are low risk until disturbed. Our lead and asbestos testing guide covers testing in detail.
Not automatically. Termite inspections in Texas are regulated by the Texas Department of Agriculture and must be completed by a licensed termite-control technician on the state's official wood-destroying insect report. Many inspection companies offer one as an add-on, so confirm it is included when you schedule.
It depends on the item. Credits often work better for large projects because you choose the contractor and control the quality of the work. Seller repairs can make sense for smaller, clearly defined fixes by licensed professionals. Repairs your lender requires must be completed before closing either way.
We'll help you read the report for what matters, line up the right specialists during your option period, and build a repair request a seller will take seriously. Start with our recommended home inspectors, explore the Buyer Resource Center, or talk it through with us.
Book a 30-minute callThanks for reaching out — we'll be in touch with you shortly.

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